York

If you like pubs, you will love York. Although this compact city may no longer have 365 – one for each day of the year – it still has several of outstanding quality.

Unlike many cities such as Liverpool, Leeds and London, which still boast some elaborate Victorian gin palaces, York’s best pubs are more of the street corner variety. This makes them more comfortable and cosy and less intimidating.

York currently has three pubs listed in CAMRA’s National Inventory and twelve more in Yorkshire’s Real Ale Heritage Pubs, also published by CAMRA

The Golden Ball, Cromwell Road. 1996

This small Victorian local was remodelled in 1929 by John Smiths of Tadcaster and features extensive glazed brick and tiles. This photograph shows my wife, Pam, waiting patiently outside for opening time.

The unusual tiled bar front in The Golden Ball 1996

The Black Swan, Peaseholme Green. 2006

Not always a pub, this mediaeval timber-framed building, dating back to 1417, was originally a private house. Reputedly haunted by several ghosts. During the 18th century, this house was occupied by the parents of General Wolfe, one-time commander of the British army in Canada. 

The Blue Bell, Fossgate. 2006

Easy to pass by, this genuine Edwardian pub is one of York’s great hidden treasures. Unassuming from the street, the splendid Edwardian interior enabled this pub to be awarded Grade II* listed status.

Glazed serving hatch in The Blue Bell. January 2015 

The York Tap, York Station. January 2015

This pub is proof that some things do get better with age. This fine Victorian building at York station was originally the station tea room, but opened as the York Tap in 2010. Considerable restoration was required, but this pub now boasts Art Deco stained glass windows, original terrazzo floor tiling and an ornate ceiling. An extensive range of beers is always on offer, many from local micro-breweries.

One of The York Tap’s individual hand pulls. January 2015

The York Tap, June. 2015 - The irrepressible Steve Barnett in his natural environment.

Tony Doyle, outside The York Tap in January 2016, celebrating the fact that he has never been ejected from this pub.

The Snickleway Inn, Goodramgate. January 2015

This 15th century pub is reputedly the most haunted in York. There are certainly some strange stories associated with this building. Occasionally the smell of lavender is noticed throughout the pub. This is said to relate to the practice, many centuries ago, of keeping plague victims in an upstairs room. Lavender was used to mask the smell of the deceased. I know from my own experience that lavender does, in fact, have a persistent aroma. Several years ago I was walking home having partaken of a few sherbets when I stumbled and fell into a lavender bush. I finally made my way home, and to bed. In the morning I had all but forgotten about this little mishap – until the smell of this plant returned to haunt me. Other spirits at The Snickleway include Mrs Tulliver and her car, Seamus and the ghost of a young girl, believed to be the daughter of a previous landlord, who was killed outside the pub by the brewer’s dray. The most malicious ghost is said to be that of an old chap who sits on a barrel in the cellar and throws objects at the staff when they go down there.

For those of you wondering, ‘snickelways’ is a York expression for small paths between buildings. It is a relatively new word coined in 1983 by the author Mark Jones from three words, snicket, ginnel and alleyway.

The Golden Slipper, Goodramgate. January 2015

During alterations in 1984, workmen found a mediaeval leather slipper which is believed to have been built into the 14th century building to ward off evil spirits.

The Punchbowl, Blossom Street. June 2015

Alfresco drinking with Steve Barnett, Jones the Beer, myself and Tony Parry.

A few late afternoon bevvies in The Punchbowl, and Steve’s expression says it all.

The Maltings, Tanner's Moat. January 2016

Jones the Beer and Tony Parry enjoying a pint in The Maltings.

Tony Parry, Barfly, Bill Chilton and Jones the Beer in The Maltings.

A congenial team photograph – unexpectantly photobombed by the pub landlord.

Barfly, Yozza Hughes and Jones the Beer enjoying a quiet pint in The Maltings. The following three pints were considerably noisier.

The Swan, Bishopsgate. January 2016

This unpretentious street corner pub was built in Victorian times but it is the remodelling performed in 1936 which gives this building its listing as a heritage pub. Little has changed from this time. Rare features include the unaltered room layout, serving hatch, bell pushes, leaded and glazed screens and terrazzo flooring. This is one of three York pubs listed in the CAMRA National Inventory.

Glazed panel above the main entrance to The Swan.

The Kings Arms, King’s Staith. January 2016

Situated on the banks of the River Ouse, this pub is known nationally as ‘The Pub that Floods’. There is a plaque inside the front door which shows the height of the water on past occasions.

The Roman Bath, St Sampson’s Square. January 2016 

In 1930, renovations to this pub revealed the remains of a caldarium, or steam bath, from the Roman city of Eboracum. The caldarium and a neighbouring plunge bath have been excavated and can and visited from inside the pub. 

The Three Cranes, St Sampson’s Square. January 2016

I remember visiting this pub in the 1980s when it was run by the redoubtable Mrs. Barnett,
mother of Steve.

Ye Olde Starre Inn, Stonegate. January 2016

Believed to be one of York’s oldest pubs, this pub has undergone several changes over the centuries. There is some interesting late 19th century decorative leaded glass in the main bar.

Main bar of Ye Olde Starre Inn.